:: CANVAS ::

by Jeremy Brocherie

Belle-Ile-en-Mer (lit. Beautiful island on the Sea) truly lives up to its name. You can do the internet research if you want something informed, or to be told where to be, what to do. I will tell you about a wonderful week I recently spent there and if you're in the area then and you like the sound of it, drop on in.

A slight disclaimer before I begin. I must confess that I have been told since, that my visit to Bell-Ile was at the perfect time of the year and with exceptional weather. Still, don't let it dissuade you, in fact if you take the time to visit maybe you like me will be under-expectant and overwhelmed.

Evidently it has a long history of taking sick and bothered Parisians taking leave of le metro, dogshit, culture and work. Presidents, workers and artists, have all arrived at the pier in La Palais (the main port) albeit some with a better seat and more fanfare. But at the same time it's possible they arrived in much the same way. It is a relatively ordinary place for ordinary people – there is not much of the over-the-top catering which preys on visitors and tourists; there is a luxury spa on the other side of the island, away from view, which benefits all concerned.

I took the local minbus to Sauzon. Beautiful Sauzon. Dropped at the bottom of the road, it winds around to unfurl the narrow waterfront town and a small port sprinkled with yachts. Anyone who knows Akaroa, Aotearoa where my grandparents live will know the scene. But Sauzon is about 5% of the size of Akaroa. I had booked at the Hotel du Phare. It is to the left of the lighthouse at the entrance to the port. Dub on the stereo as you walk in, beards and bellies to the left and right of me. Smile reaches ears as one contemplates hitting the jackpot of holiday spots.

Sauzon. The Hotel du Phare is next to the light house with le roof de l'orange.

Le Hotel du Phare

This is the point when I start to lose the romance and the reality of being a non French speaking foreigner kicks in. If I am going to give anyone any advice, it must be that before you travel to France, take some time to learn some French. Yes, it's respectful of the culture and yes, one mustn't be ignorant, but if you don't you run the risk that you'll end up feeling as though you've been on a monks retreat, incommunicado. Start practicing!

The café at the Hotel du Phare has a brilliant terrace at the edge of the port's entrance. You can sit, in the wind if the weather's that way inclined, with a bird's eye view of the boats and their contents coming in (and perhaps a bird's eye staring back at you from an inquisitive seagull perched at the end of your table). I had arrived around 5.30pm and was lucky enough to view one boat come in with its catch which was quickly dispatched to a gathered crowd across a makeshift counter. With regret I had agreed that renting a place with cooking facilities is a little uneconomic for one.

Still the Hotel du Phare is great value for one at €53 half board (that's dinner, bed and breakfast to you backpackers!). Considering the restaurant is one of the better seafood restaurants on the island, dinner is something to look forward to. Served between 1915 and 2115 sharp of course.

The shock comes after dinner when I discover that our hotel bar has closed at 2100 and am I forced to watch my world cup match in the small tv lounge sans alcohol. I go to bed with my book and have a brilliant nights sleep.

The rest of my week is spent, in an ode to Python's drill instructor, biking up and down the island. My legs hate me for it as there's a bit of up-down but you don't half feel good for it and as you break down a stretch you may find a wonderful walk, or a wonderful beach, or wonderful nothing-ness.

A stretch.

A wonderful walk along cliffs.

A wonderful beach. Herlin.

Wonderful nothing-ness.

The low down: Fly to Nantes on Ryanair from Stanstead from approx £30 each way incl. taxes. Either fly from Nantes (approx €80 pp each direction – 40mins) direct in a teeny weeny plane or take the train (€23) to Auray then bus (€8) to Quiberon and then ferry (€19) to La Palais. (total 5-6 hrs depending on connections).

Do. Go with a good few books. Seriously a book a day as there's bugger all else to do and there ain't no English book shop.

Don't. Go in July or August. Go expecting a knees-up. Bother if you're not into seafood.